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March 22, 2006
Quaffing kale on the Cape

Clam chowdah may be the soup of choice for Cape Cod visitors, but the more obscure kale soup also has plenty of fans. While there isn't any seafood among the ingredients, the hearty soup became a Cape specialty after Portuguese fishermen settled in Provincetown and brought their signature dish to our shores. Besides the distinctive green, leafy kale, the soup includes kidney beans, potatoes, fresh parsley, a dash of spicy red pepper, and linguica, or Portuguese sausage. When it's done right, it's heaven in a bowl.

There are a number of Cape eateries that do it right, including the historic Lobster Pot in Provincetown. Their kale soup features a clear broth and fairly mild spices. Since you'll want to linger and take in the dining room's spectacular harbor views, consider making the soup a prelude to a boiled lobster dinner. (You can even choose your own lobster from the restaurant's tanks.)

Another top choice for kale soup is the Land Ho! in Orleans. The laid-back restaurant also makes a relatively tame, but tasty, soup with a clear broth. Since the popular spot often has long waits for seats during peak times, you may want to order your bowl of kale soup at the bar.

My pick for the Cape's best kale soup is the Mayflower Cafe in Provincetown. The reasonably priced restaurant features fried seafood and other typical New England fare, but their kale soup is a standout. It packs a spicy, but not overwhelming, punch, and a hint of tomatoes gives it a distinctive red color. Lines for seats in the dining room can get long here also, but the restaurant will gladly put up some soups to go. Then you can savor your kale soup while walking along P-Town’s famed Commercial Street.

The Lobster Pot
321 Commercial Street, Provincetown
(508) 487-0842

Land Ho!
Rt. 6A, Orleans
(508) 255-5165

The Mayflower Cafe
300 Commercial Street, Provincetown
(508) 487-0121

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