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Dating back to pre-Revolutionary 1742, Durgin-Park is fond of proclaiming that it's "Where your great grandfather dined a century ago." I can't say for sure whether any of my great grandfathers ever stepped foot in the landmark Boston restaurant, but I know that my father ate there. For the past year, Dad's been dropping subtle, and not-so-subtle hints that he wanted to return to Durgin-Park for some of its famous Johnny cake (corn bread), baked Indian pudding (a concoction made with corn meal, molasses, and sugar), and its signature dish, a Hummer-sized portion of roast prime rib of beef. Our family recently relented and decided to celebrate his 76th birthday at the Faneuil Hall Market Place eatery.

Locals tend to take Durgin-Park for granted. And that's a shame. Sure, it's located in the touristy trinket trove known as Chintzy, er, Quincy Market, but the restaurant is so authentic, it practically screams, "BOSTON!" And while the food would never be mistaken for chi-chi gourmet fare, it is nonetheless quite good. The austere decor bespeaks its Yankee roots: antique ceiling tiles, wide floorboards, exposed pipes, hardback wood chairs, and an open kitchen that predates the cooking-as-theater trend by decades. Patrons are seated family style alongside strangers at long wooden tables. Air conditioning? That's for New York City sissies. Durgin-Park does make a concession to modernity by running noisy, large floor fans during the warmer months.

The food is no-nonsense and distinctly New England. The fish chowder is creamy and intoxicating, the Boston baked beans are the real deal, and the seafood, including broiled schrod, baked scallops, and a broiled or fried seafood platter, is incredibly fresh and delicious.

Durgin-Park's waitstaff has been known to be as no-nonsense as the restaurant's food (and occasionally, as fresh as the fish), although the servers seem to have mellowed considerably over the years. Our waitress, Carol Long, deserves a server-of-the-year award. By mixing plenty of humor, warmth, and doting attention with her take-no-prisoners Durgin-Park attitude, she helped create a birthday meal for the memory books. She handled Dad, who can be demanding, with aplomb, and won his heart and stomach with hugs and an especially humongous serving of prime rib. When it was time to bring out the cake, she had the entire dining room sing a rousing rendition of "Happy Birthday." Dad loved the attention and the cake, but he regretted that he wasn't able to order his beloved Indian pudding. When Carol caught wind of that, she packaged the dessert in a take-home container as a parting gift.

Consider visiting (or revisiting) Durgin-Park to make some of your own memories. And ask for Carol.

Durgin-Park
617-227-2038
Faneuil Hall Market Place, Boston

Photo courtesy of Durgin-Park.