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June 18, 2007
Savor Plum Island's ocean blue.
If I say, "Massachusetts, beach, and vacation," I'll bet your knee-jerk response is "Cape Cod." And for good reason. The Cape is home to world-class beaches and is synonymous with oceanside fun. But Boston's North Shore also has some wonderful, if less heralded, beaches. In fact, the shoreline at Plum Island in Newbury ranks, in my estimation, second only to the Cape's Coast Guard Beach in Eastham, as the state's best beach. Until recently, pretty much the only way to stay amid Plum Island's picture-perfect dunes and crashing surf was to rent a cottage. But with the recent introduction of blue (sic), The Inn on the Beach, visitors now have an idyllic hotel from which to enjoy the idyllic beach.

Located smack-dab on a stretch of beach next to the Parker River Wildlife Refuge, the inn offers stunning views. Between the sweet chirps of the countless varieties of migratory birds (Plum Island is a renowned haven for birds and birdwatchers) and the constant dull roar of the surf, it also offers a soothing soundtrack by which to wake up and fall asleep. After a peaceful day on the island, I defy anyone to last more than a few minutes before being lulled into a deep slumber from the sounds of the calming waves.
But the inn is more than a place to rest your head. This is a place so chic and hip, its name has no use for initial capitalization. blue's suites feature amenities such as a marble bathroom with a giant, ceiling-mounted rain showerhead; a plasma television and DVD/CD player; a gas or wood-stove fireplace; overstuffed furniture; and a refrigerator stocked with water, soft drinks, and a bottle of wine or champagne. The staff delivers breakfast to each suite in a charming wicker basket.

The inn's signature blue color is evident everywhere, including the unusual stones that line the pathways, but the overwhelming color is white. Stark white. White on white. The walls, floors, bedcover, furniture, and nearly everything else in the suites radiate whiteness. The folks at the inn say that the monochrome color scheme is reminiscent of the swanky hotels on Miami's South Beach. I say it's...white.
Little touches abound at the inn. The lower-case "b" logo is imprinted on beach towels, complimentary beach flip-flops, matchboxes (provided to light the mood-setting candles), and cute doorknob hangars that read "b quiet" on one side and "b clean" on the other. There's even the ubiquitous blue "b" imprinted on the boogie boards available at the front desk. (Plum Island offers some of the world's most tubular body surfing conditions.)

Miami Beach may have served as the inspiration for blue's designers, but the inn is not like the towering hotels that line the Florida city's coast. With 14 suites and cottages, there is a hushed and intimate atmosphere here. There are a number of packages available that include niceties such as fancy shmancy candy, fresh flowers, and in-room massages. The inn does not have an onsite dining room, but Plum Island as well as nearby Newburyport--itself a treasure--offer a wealth of wonderful restaurants.
If there's a cloud in Plum Island's blue-silver lining, it is the greenhead flies that love to annoy beachgoers throughout the month of July. Unique to the area's salt marshes, the nasty flies can make the island idyll a bit less than idyllic. By the way, Plum Island is easily accessible by car over the drawbridge that crosses the Parker River.
blue, The Inn on the Beach
Plum Island, Newbury
978-465-7171
Open year-round.
Rates, which range from $230 to $995, vary according to season, accommodations, and optional add-ons.
The writer was provided with complimentary accommodations for the purpose of reviewing the inn. While it has not influenced this review, ExploreNewEngland.com believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest.
Photos: ©Arthur Levine, 2007. Licensed to boston.com.