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Unlike the smaller, more staid Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard has a broader and richer palette of personas. It's a short distance from Edgartown to Oak Bluffs, but the elegant, tidy captain's homes of the former feel a world apart from the honky-tonk arcades and bars of the latter. The Vineyard's patchwork character becomes even more apparent when you toss in its whimsical gingerbread houses, the dramatic Aquinnah Cliffs, Menemsha's busy fishing port, and the funky Taylor/Simon musical vibe. Similarly, the Winnetu Oceanside Resort is hard to pin down. Sure, it's an upscale hotel with spacious suites, stunning ocean views, and a sophisticated dining room. But any illusions that it is a stuffy, hushed place are quickly shattered when a vintage fire truck, complete with a crew of squealing kids, comes barreling through the property. The Winnetu is equally adept at pampering discriminating vacationers and engaging the Pampers set.

Frankly, even if the resort weren't particularly adept at anything, its location would still make it a draw. (In fact, the Katama Shores Inn, which used to occupy the property before the current owners razed it and built the Winnetu in 2001, was fairly pedestrian.) The ocean-facing rooms offer striking vistas of South Beach and its grassy dunes. Guests can't quite roll out of bed and into the rolling surf, however. That's because it's a good five-minute walk to the beach. But, what a beach. The three-mile shoreline and sparkling water seem to extend indefinitely in all directions. The resort does provide wagons to cart gear down to the beach.

Beach views notwithstanding, the Winnetu's location on the Vineyard can be less than ideal for car-less guests hoping to explore the island. Although it's in Edgartown, the resort is on the outskirts in the Katama area. To reach the center of town, it's a pleasant three-mile bike ride or a challenging walk. The resort does provide an occasional shuttle, and there is a bus line that stops nearby, but the schedule is limited outside of the mid-summer window. There is a charming one-way water shuttle that operates some evenings as well. With no other options, taxi fares could really start adding up.

With all that it has to offer, guests may not want to venture away from the Winnetu. Amenities include massage treatments, tennis (including an onsite pro and complimentary clinics), and a well-appointed fitness center that includes guided exercise classes. For children, there is a parent/toddler program, a playroom, and scheduled activities such as the aforementioned fire truck rides and face painting. A life-size chess set on the inn's courtyard contributes to the fanciful atmosphere.

Guests may not want to venture far from the inn's restaurant, Lure, either. Presided over by Mark Goldberg, who comes to the Winnetu by way of Boston's Mistral, the restaurant focuses on fresh Vineyard ingredients. As you'd expect, that means lots of seafood. What you might not expect, that also means poultry and produce from the adjacent Katama FARM Institute. The kitchen features herbs grown in gardens located throughout Winnetu's property as well. Lure's focaccia, featuring just-picked rosemary and scallions, was heavenly. The restaurant is pricey with main courses (everything is served a la carte) averaging about $35. In keeping with Winnetu's family-friendly mission, the dining room includes a partitioned area where parents can enjoy the gourmet food, and their kids can play without disturbing the other patrons. During the shoulder seasons, the inn offers complementary breakfast. This is far from muffin-in-cellophane fare. Cooked-to-order omelets feature options such as caramelized onions and homemade salsa (yum!), and the generous buffet also includes freshly baked treats.

The staff helps distinguish the Winnetu from the average hotel. With a total of 53 suites (the Winnetu also offers townhouses and homes at its neighboring Mattakesett Properties), the inn's staff members are able to be on a first-name basis with guests and are great at chatting them up throughout their stays. General manager Roderick Anderson, with his cheerful, doting nature, takes a personal interest in all guests and sets the friendly, welcoming tone.

Getting to the Vineyard is part of the adventure. The Winnetu has an arrangement with the passenger-only New England Fast Ferry from New Bedford (a quick 55-minute journey) and will make reservations as well as provide transportation to and from the island dock.

Winnetu Oceanside Resort
Edgartown on Martha's Vineyard
(508) 310-1733
Open mid-April to late October
In-season rates start at $295 per night. The resort is running fall specials (details are available at its Web site) that include discounted rates and extra features.

The writer was provided with complimentary accommodations for the purpose of reviewing the inn. While it has not influenced this review, ExploreNewEngland.com believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest.

Photos: ©Arthur Levine, 2007. Licensed to Boston.com.