Annual Bourne Scallop Festival
Friday, September 21 to Sunday, September 23
Buzzards Bay Park, Main St., Bourne
$5 admission, (12 and under free)
Organizers describe this as New England's largest scallop festival, although who knew that there were any other odes to the tasty sea morsel? Still, with 40,000 visitors anticipated, this will be a humongous event. The highlight will be the (fried) scallop dinners and other activities will include entertainment (featuring the great local band, Entrain), arts and crafts, a home expo show, rides and games, and other food for scallop snubbers.
Photo: Nashoba Valley Winery
August 31, 2007
Passengers aboard Nantucket-bound ferries catch sight of a lovely white church steeple as the ships approach the island. While it could hardly qualify as a skyscraper, the church does rise above all of Nantucket's other buildings. In addition to providing a welcoming beacon to arriving ferry passengers, the church's leaders realized that the steeple's height and location could offer folks on the island a wonderful vantage point from which to view Nantucket. So, during the warmer months, the First Congregational Church allows guests to climb up its bell tower and take in a 360-degree overview of Nantucket.
The church charges a nominal $2.50 per-person donation to climb the tower. There are 94 steps to the apex of the tower, so guests should be in reasonably good health to attempt the trek. It is not handicapped accessible. On the way up, there is a room with a large viewing window and a couple of comfortable rocking chairs. Situated above the tree line, the view is great, but it only faces in one direction and doesn't afford the incredible views that the top of the bell tower allows. There are also some artifacts, photos, and information about Nantucket and the church on display in the room. Continuing up to the top, climbers pass the church's bell.
At the top of the tower, guests enter a small room with windows facing in all four directions. There are maps and other guides to help visitors identify landmarks. The church also provides binoculars at each window. The views are spectacular. Nantucket is a relatively small island, and the ocean can be seen in every direction. It's especially fun to view the bustling harbor and downtown area. A visit to the First Congregational Church's bell tower could be a great way for first-time visitors to get the lay of Nantucket's quaint and charming land.
First Congregational Church
62 Centre St., Nantucket (just around the corner from the Jared Coffin House)
The bell tower is open Mondays through Saturdays from mid-June to mid-October
$2.50 donation
Top photo: ©Arthur Levine, 2007. Licensed to Boston.com
Bottom photo: First Congregational Church of Nantucket
August 24, 2007
With colleges and public schools starting their fall schedules earlier, Labor Day weekends on Cape Cod generally haven't been quite as crowded as they were only a few years ago. Still, there's bound to be a tumult next weekend, as visitors indulge summer's last gasp with a final frenzy of swimming, fried clams, ice cream, and mini-golf. I'm predicting it'll be a whole lot easier getting on to the Cape than it will be getting off for the holiday weekend. Since the "flyover" opened in place of the rotary at the Sagamore Bridge a few months ago, inbound traffic to Cape Cod on Fridays has usually been a relative breeze. Cars whiz--OK, maybe "trot" is a more apt description--past the spot where the dreaded rotary used to turn mild-mannered drivers into raving lunatics, and cruise onto the bridge that takes them over the Cape Cod Canal. Just as motorists get lulled into a false sense of, "Hey, this thing really works!” however, the return trips have inexplicably turned into nightmares that have stalled drivers dreaming about the bad old days of the rotary. It doesn't seem to matter what time visitors make the departing trek on Sunday (or in the case of Labor Day weekend, Monday); it's a parking-lot crawl for the last few miles leading to the bridge pretty much all day, and it's worse this post-flyover summer than previous years. Likewise, it doesn’t seem to matter when people arrive on Friday; it's typically clear sailing all day. Does this make any sense? There is the same number of lanes heading in both directions. All of those cars got onto the Cape. Why can't they get off? Perhaps motorists spread their arrival times between Friday, Saturday, and in the case of day-trippers, Sunday morning, but then leave en masse on Sunday. Whatever the reason, I'd advise those of you who are planning a last-hurrah Cape Cod trip this Labor Day weekend to finish up your clams and ice cream and get the heck off the Cape on Sunday.
Photo: Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce
August 13, 2007
Why must so-called adults abandon the things that they loved as children? Some might say that grownups who ride roller coasters, body surf, read comic books, or blast a guitar solo with their amps turned to 11 may be immature. I say: I know you are, but what am I? Reconnecting with (or never letting go of) beloved childhood activities helps adults stay young at heart. Let's add playing in the sand to the esteemed list of silly but wonderful things that are OK for anyone over the age of ten to pursue. And I've got just the place to find your inner pail-and-shovel child. Nantucket is hosting its 34th annual Sandcastle & Sculpture Day.
The mud flinging will take place this Saturday, August 18. To lend an air of adult respectability to the event, professional artists from the Nantucket Island School of Design and the Arts will judge the sculptures. All contestants will receive a ribbon. (Yippee!) And the grand prizewinner will get a People's Choice ribbon. There will be categories for kids and adults. If you'd like to join, but you're embarrassed about what others may think about your age-inappropriate behavior, you could recruit a couple of children and enter as a family team. Maybe next year, Nantucket could plan a body surfing contest.
Nantucket Sandcastle & Sculpture Day
Saturday, August 18
Jetties Beach
Contestants must pre-register
Photo: Nantucket Chamber of Commerce
July 30, 2007
The talented and prolific Taylor family, including James and Livingston, has roots in Massachusetts, but the singing siblings spent their formative years in North Carolina. In his mind, James may be going to Carolina, but he and the rest of his family returned to our fair state. Many of them have homes on Martha's Vineyard. While she may not be as popular as her famous brothers, Kate Taylor brings the same kind of folk and easygoing rock style to her music as well as a dash of soul and gospel. She will be performing this Friday, August 3, from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. for a free outdoor concert at Devereux Beach in Marblehead. (Donations to support the Devereux Beach Fund will be gladly accepted.) If you can't make the North Shore show, Kate Taylor will be performing on Wednesday, August 15 at The Old Whaling Church in Edgartown on Martha's Vineyard.
Photo: katetaylor.com
July 23, 2007
Massachusetts is home to dozens of film festivals. Two upcoming events will present works by and about people of color. The Roxbury Film Festival, scheduled for August 1 to 5, will showcase local filmmakers with a slate of features, shorts, animation, and other productions as well as a series of panels and acting workshops. Venues for the ninth annual festival will include the Museum of Fine Arts, Northeastern University, and the Massachusetts College of Art. From August 8 to 11, the fifth annual Martha's Vineyard African-American Film Festival will be held in Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven on the serene island. In addition to presenting films featuring the works of both established and emerging filmmakers, the event will offer an art expo, actor workshops, panel discussions, directors' chats, and Q&A sessions. Special guests, including Jeffrey Wright (Broken Flowers, Angels in America) and multi-talented Ben Vereen, have attended the event in past years. Who knows who may show up on the island this time?
Photo: Roxbury Film Festival
July 18, 2007
Most of the state's fairs take place during harvest season in the fall, but a few fill the summer air with the peculiar aroma medley of sizzling sausages and fresh popcorn from the food stands, axle grease from the spinning rides, and flowers and animal dung from the exhibit halls. Ah, the pungent circle of life. You can give your nose a workout this weekend when the Barnstable County Fair kicks off on Cape Cod in Falmouth. In addition to the melange of horse shows, a beekeepers display, chainsaw carving, a petting zoo, and other fair favorites, there will be a demolition derby, fireworks, and performances by Starship, Bucky Covington of "American Idol" fame, and The Oak Ridge Boys. So giddy up and oom poppa oom poppa mow mow over to the fairgrounds.
Barnstable County Fair
July 20-28
Rt. 151, East Falmouth
Photo: Barnstable County Fair
July 5, 2007
A few days ago, I wrote about the exhibit that Toyota is bringing to the area to hype its hybrid cars. But what about ditching the car altogether and taking a unique form of public transportation? Boston Harbor Cruises has been offering ferry service between Provincetown and Boston for many years. More recently, passengers have also been able to travel between Boston and Quincy or Salem aboard high-speed ferries. The ferry lines have always touted the benefits of plying the high seas, such as bypassing clogged highways and enjoying the ocean breezes. Recently, they've added one more benefit: It's the green thing to do. Whether it's a day trip or part of an extended vacation, the ferries give locals and out-of-towners a way to explore Cape Cod, the North Shore, or historic Quincy without having to resort to an automobile. The Greater Boston Convention and Visitors Bureau peddles the ferries as part of its new "Green Visitors Program" (sounds like the organization is throwing out the welcome mat for Martians and relatives of Kermit the Frog), which also includes information about walking tours, trolley services, the T, rail transportation, ecotourism initiatives, bike tours, and other earth-friendly ways to access the state's treasures.
Photo: ©Arthur Levine. Licensed to boston.com.
July 2, 2007
A few days ago, I posted a guide to holiday fireworks on Cape Cod. But, the rest of the Bay State will be getting into the patriotic spirit as well, and, based on the requests that have been coming into my mailbag, folks want to know where else they will be able to view fireworks this week. Here's a selected list of pyrotechnic displays throughout Massachusetts:
BOSTON
Of course the king of kabooms in the state (and one of the biggest 4th of July celebrations in the nation for that matter) will be the annual Boston Pops on the Esplanade extravaganza. The fun kicks off on Wednesday, July 4, at 8:00 p.m. at the Hatch Memorial Shell on the Charles River Esplanade with the Pops and special guest performer John Mellencamp (who will undoubtedly sing his little ditty, "R.O.C.K. in the U.S.A."). If you want a decent view of the show, plan to arrive very early and spend the day securing your precious piece of turf. Or, you could watch the festivities at home on WBZ TV-4 starting at 8 p.m., which will segue into the national broadcast on CBS at 9 p.m.
But, no matter how wide your screen may be or how surrounded you are by your fancy sound system, there's nothing like seeing and hearing fireworks live. Here are some of the other places in the state to view fireworks:
NORTH OF BOSTON
- Danvers
Tuesday, July 3, 9 p.m. at Plains Park
- Gloucester
Tuesday, July 3, at 10 p.m. over Gloucester Harbor
- Haverhill
Tuesday, July 3, 9 p.m. at Riverside Park
- Lynn and Nahant
Tuesday, July 3, at dusk over Lynn and Nahant Beaches
- Methuen
Tuesday, July 3, 9 p.m. at Nicholson Field
- North Reading
Tuesday, July 3, 8:30 p.m. at Ipswich River Park
- Amesbury
Wednesday, July 4 at 9:00 p.m. at Woodsoms Farm
- Andover
Wednesday, July 4 at 9:00 p.m. at the high school soccer field
- Ipswich
Wednesday, July 4 at 8:30 p.m. at The Crane Estate
- Marblehead
Wednesday, July 4 at 9:00 p.m. over Marblehead Harbor
- Salem
Wednesday, July 4 at 9:15 p.m. launched from Derby Wharf
ELSEWHERE IN THE STATE
- Westfield
Tuesday, July 3, 9 p.m. at Stanley Park
- Worcester
Tuesday, July 3, 9 p.m. at Tornadoes Ball Park at Fitton Field
- Brockton
Wednesday, July 4 at 10:30 p.m. at Brockton Fairgrounds
- Newton
Wednesday, July 4 at 1:00 p.m. at Albermarle Field
- Plymouth
Wednesday, July 4 at 9:00 p.m. over Plymouth Cove
Photo: boston.com
June 20, 2007
A message in my mailbag made me realize that it will soon be the Fourth of July, and that folks will be looking for fireworks to mark the occasion. There will be plenty of people vacationing on Cape Cod around the holiday. People like Pamm, who writes:
Hello Arthur. We are visiting the Cape for the first time over the 4th of July holiday and would like to know whether fireworks will be visible from the beach at our hotel, the Ocean Edge Resort in Brewster.
Hi Pamm. Thanks for writing. There will be plenty of kabooms lighting up the night skies over the Cape on or around July 4. Here is a list of where you (and anyone else seeking a fireworks fix) can find the pyrotechnics:
- Orleans
Sunday July 1 (Rain date: Monday, July 2)
Dusk (app. 9 p.m.) at Rock Harbor
- Falmouth
Wednesday, July 4 (Rain date: Thursday, July 5)
9 p.m. at Falmouth Heights Beach, Vineyard Sound
- Provincetown
Wednesday, July 4
Dusk at harbor area
- Nantucket
Wednesday, July 4
Jetties Beach
- Martha's Vineyard
Wednesday, July 4
Edgartown
- Mashpee
Thursday, July 5 (Rain date: Friday, July 6)
Dusk at Mashpee High School
- Barnstable
FrIday, July 6 (Rain date: Saturday, July 7)
Dusk (app. 9 p.m.) at Lewis Bay
Pamm, your best bet would probably be Orleans. Still, I'd suggest you travel to the communities where the fireworks will be staged for best viewing. Have a great vacation!
Photo: townspi.com
June 15, 2007
With our arduous winters and springs that should be more aptly named "mud season," we savor summer in Massachusetts. That's why we endure two-hour waits to cross the Cape Cod Canal (fly over THIS, State Highway Department!), sport lobstah-red sunburns, and eat far too much clam chowdah. Ah, clam chowdah. The creamy broth, the chewy clams, the delicate potatoes, the hint of butter: Is there anything that says summer in Massachusetts quite like a bowl of delectable chowdah? If you want to overindulge and help separate the littlenecks from the quahogs, visit these chowder fests and get slurpin'. But be forewarned: While you may know that Boston baked beans, beans are good for your heart, you may not be aware that clam chowdah makes it louder.
- Cape Cod Chowder Festival
Sunday, June 24th, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Cape Cod Melody Tent, Hyannis
$10 in advance, $15 day of event
One dozen restaurants duke it out for chowdah supremacy. Entertainment and ice cream included.
- Boston Harborfest's Chowderfest
Sunday, July 1, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Plaza at City Hall, Boston
$10 for adults, $7 for children
Organizers expect to ladle out more than 2000 gallons of chowdah.
Photo: dinewise.com
June 13, 2007
See that "Ask Arthur Here" box in the right column of this page? It's your opportunity to pose questions or share information about things to do throughout the state. I enjoy getting the mail, so I encourage you to send your queries. I often post the questions and replies right here in my blog. Occasionally the questions are quite broad, and it can be a challenge to provide meaningful info. For example, a number of readers will send me missives such as, "My family and I are thinking of visiting the Cape and Islands in August. Can you provide a list of places to stay, recommend some restaurants, and suggest an itinerary of things to do?" Well, yeah, but that could fill a book! Other times, readers send along questions that are very specific, and are much easier to address. For instance, here's one from Lynn:
I am looking for a festival with food and music between June 22-25 anywhere in driving distance from Boston. Can you help?
It'd be my pleasure, Lynn. With the summer season in full swing, there are a number of festivals to consider:
- Annual Summer Revels
A Celebration of the Sea and Revels Circle of Song
June 22, 2007 at 7:00 p.m. and June 23, 2007 at 4:00 p.m.
Children's Wharf Park at the Boston Children's Museum, 300 Congress St., Boston
Free admission
Highlighting Boston's nautical history, the festival offers seafaring music, storytelling, children's games, free drinks, and sweets.
- Patuxet Strawberry Thanksgiving
June 23, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Plimoth Plantation, 137 Warren Avenue, Plymouth
Free with admission to Plimoth Plantation
Native Americans celebrate the sweet, plump fruits with signing, dancing, games, and, of course, gorging on strawberries.
- Provincetown Portuguese Festival
June 21 to 24, times vary
At MacMillan Pier and other locations in Provincetown
Most events free; there are charges for the food.
Music, kale soup tasting, dancing, films, exhibits, Blessing of the Fleet, and other events.
- I previously wrote about the BBQ festival coming to Boston:
Phantom Gourmet BBQ Beach Party
June 22, 23, and 24, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Boston City Hall Plaza
$10 general admission. Food will be additional.
Photo: Provincetown Portuguese Festival
June 8, 2007
Do you love films? Do you love the sun, surf, and beautiful Cape Cod locations? The two need not be mutually exclusive. There are two area festivals that will have cineastes shuttling between indoor movie houses and picture-perfect outdoor settings. Since they are both scheduled for next week, June 13 to 17, you could attend the Nantucket Film Festival or the more offbeat Provincetown International Film Festival; or, you could consider taking a ferry and catching parts of both events.
Highlights of the Nantucket Film Festival:
- Evening, starring Claire Danes, Toni Collette, Vanessa Redgrave,
Meryl Streep, and Glenn Close, opens the event.
- Screenwriter Robert Benton (Bonnie and Clyde, Kramer vs. Kramer, Places in the
Heart) will receive an honor,
- Among the more than 50 films to be shown at the festival will be Rocket Science, Son of Rambow, and I Am An Animal.
Highlights of the Provincetown International Film Festival:
- Kathleen Turner (who will receive a lifetime achievement award) and John Waters will host "A Different Kind of Family Night" at the Wellfleet Drive-In with showings of Serial Mom and War of the Roses.
- Alan Cumming will receive an Excellence in Acting Award
- Todd Solondz (Welcome to the Dollhouse, Happiness) will receive The Filmmaker on the Edge Award
- Among the more than 60 films to be shown at the festival will be Death at a Funeral (directed by Frank Oz), a sing-along to the film Xanadu, and In the Shadow of the Moon.
Photo: Lorne Michaels and Steve Martin at last year's Nantucket Film Festival. Courtesy of Nantucket Film Festival.
May 31, 2007
Even though I've been toiling away within its vast collection of tubes for a few years now, the Internet still amazes me. It's fairly astonishing that I can peck out something in my living room here in Massachusetts, and a bloke in England can easily read it and reply to me. A bloke such as Fred, who sent this email to my Explore New England mailbag:
Hi Arthur. My wife Audrey and I are visiting Cape Cod from 14 to 18 June 2007, from England. We are both in our early 60s. Do you have any advice on where to go and what to see whilst we are on holiday?
Thanks for writing, Fred. First of all, it's great that you (apparently) don't hold any hard feelings about that Boston Tea Party brouhaha. I say, let bygones be bygones; we're happy to welcome you to our fair commonwealth. Second of all, we here in the States enjoy the peculiarities of the King's English that you've shared with us. You wrote: "Do you have any advice on where to go and what to see whilst we are on holiday?" The rough Massachusetts translation of that sentence would be: "Do youse know any wicked good places to pahty on the Cape?" Third of all (and I had better wrap this up soon, because I'm running out of fingers), Cape Cod is a wicked huge peninsula on the eastern coast of Massachusetts. There are a myriad of places to visit, stay, dine, play, and explore--far too many to summarize in a five-day itinerary.
That doesn't mean you couldn't put together a wonderful vacation, er, holiday; it just means you'll have to do a little pre-planning to find the accommodations, restaurants, sights, and activities that fit your budget and interests. Any Cape Cod jaunt would have to include a visit to at least one of its many beaches. I suggest you put the National Seashore on your itinerary. Operated by the National Park Service, the stretch of beaches from Eastham to Provincetown is among the world's most beautiful. With its panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and its feisty surf (perfect for body surfing and boogie boarding), my favorite is Coast Guard Beach. For a more romantic setting (hey, folks in their early 60s need some romance, too!), you could plan a twilight walk along Nauset Light Beach. After you experience the crashing waves, sandy dunes, cool breezes, and twinkling reflections of the moon and lighthouse beacon in the water, you just may fall in love with old Cape Cod--and each other all over again.
To get a better handle on all that Cape Cod has to offer and begin planning your getaway, here are some resources:
Have a great Cape Cod holiday. We'd love to hear about what you did. Write back and share some of the highlights with us.
-Arthur
Arthur Levine
Having a wicked good time in Massachusetts!
Explore New England Massachusetts Blogger
Photo: National Park Service
May 29, 2007
Memorial Day weekend has come and gone. That means it's time to stock up on trashy novels, head to Old Cape Cod, drive yourself insane at mini-golf, and slurp away at ice cream. Ah, ice cream. One of the sweetest, most anticipatory phrases known to mankind is, "Let's go get some ice cream!" Here in the Boston area, we raise ice cream fondness to the level of idolatry. At what Cape Cod ice cream shrines should you plunk down your hard-earned dough for a few moments of gustatory bliss? At the end of last season, I assembled a crack (or is that cracked?) crew of taste testers to determine the Cape's best ice cream. Herewith are the results. Keep in mind that the prices and other info were current in 2006, but may be different this year. Our love of ice cream, however, is timeless.
From September, 2006: We observed, sniffed, licked, gently chewed, slurped, pondered over, gently chewed some more, and otherwise snarfed down eighteen scoops of ice cream at six of Cape Cod's most highly regarded shops in an attempt to determine which joint had the best cool, creamy stuff. Our conclusion: BURP! No actually, the crack ice cream survey team I assembled was able to pare down the list and come up with some winners.
If you arrived here first and want to learn more about our highly sophisticated, if wholly disreputable, survey process as well as discover more about our adventures at Cape Cod Creamery, Polar Cave, and Four Seas Ice Cream, click over to Part one of my Cape Cool blog series. To learn more about our ice cream samplings at Highland Creamery, the Sundae School, and the Ice Cream Cafe, zip over to Part two of the series. If you're waiting with your tongues hanging out and your stomach growling to find out who the winners are, read on. Ed McMahon, please call for the timpani.
We sampled vanilla, chocolate, and one flavor that each shop identified as its signature. We used a five-point rating system and judged the ice cream on attributes such as texture and flavor intensity. I crunched all the numbers. Of the six shops we visited, the winner, with an overall score of 4.61, was Cape Cod Creamery (Route 28 in S. Yarmouth, 508-398-8400). Rating a 4.69, its chocolate also topped our survey. And its signature flavor, Craigville Caramel Crunch, scored a near-perfect 4.82 and blew away the competition in that category. A relative newcomer to Cape Cod's dessert scene, the Cape Cod Creamery offered smooth, obviously fresh, and creamy ice cream with distinct and tasty, but not overwhelming, flavors.
Coming in second place was Polar Cave (22 Falmouth Rd., aka Rt. 28, in Mashpee, 508-477-5553) with an overall score of 4.21. Its vanilla rated a 4.43 to top our list, although its Almond Joy didn't quite fill our survey team with joy. Just behind Polar Cave with an overall score of 4.17 was the Sundae School (381 Lower County Rd. in Dennisport, 508-394-9122-- also locations in Harwichport and East Orleans). Its ice cream scored well for all three flavors, but the shop is best known for its unique sundaes and its cute schoolhouse charm.
Perhaps the biggest surprise of our ice cream gorge-a-thon was the disappointing results at the legendary Four Seas Ice Cream (360 S. Main St. in Centerville, 508-775-1394). Perennially praised for having some of Cape Cod's best ice cream, we rated the 72-year-old shop last with an overall rating of 3.76. With strong hints of cinnamon, its chocolate was just plain weird. And the texture of the ice cream was a bit gummier than the other shops.
My personal favorite shop was Highland Creamery (Route 6 in Truro, 508-487-3435). Its Chocolate Heart Attack (deep chocolate ice cream with fudge chunks, Godiva-soaked brownie pieces, and shaved white chocolate--can somebody scream, "Amen!") is to die for. And with its bubble machine, disco ball, and other wacky frou-frou, its decor was beyond funky.
Do you have your own favorite Cape Cod ice cream shops? Do you think my Cape Cool survey team was wildly off base? Write to me using the "Ask Arthur Here" box in the right column.
Photo: Business Brokers.com Web site
May 14, 2007
The summer tourist season is heating up, and that means tons of families will be heading to Cape Cod looking for things to do. Bonnie and her gang is one such family. Here's her email to me:
Hi Arthur, my husband, my two daughters and their husbands, and my two grandsons, ages 5 and 2 will be visiting Cape Cod the week of June 16. We usually spend one day in Hyannis and one in P-town. [That's Provincetown for you out-of-towners.] Can you suggest any other activities (including beaches) for us? Thanks.
Thanks for writing Bonnie. Sure, I can offer some Cape Cod touring tips:
- No trip to Cape Cod would be complete without at least a couple of visits to the beach. With your younger grandsons, you may want to venture to the Bay-side beaches, which tend to be more gentle than the open-ocean beaches on the Cape's eastern shoreline. A good choice would be Sandy Neck beach in West Barnstable. If you're OK with bigger waves (and cccccold water in mid-June), head to the beaches of the Cape Cod National Seashore. With its panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean, its dunes, and its feisty surf (perfect for body surfing and boogie boarding), my favorite is Coast Guard Beach in Eastham.
- Perhaps your family would enjoy a tour of the Cape Cod Canal. Hy-Line Cruises leaves from Onset Town Pier, near the Bourne Bridge, and offers two- and three-hour sightseeing cruises, as well as sunset cocktail cruises and music cruises. Contact Hy-Line at 800-492-8082.
- If you're looking for a more adventurous journey by water, how about a visit to Martha's Vineyard or Nantucket? Both islands are charming. After disembarking the ferry, you'd be able to navigate the quaint town of Nantucket by foot. Martha's Vineyard is bigger, but your grandchildren may enjoy taking a ride on the antique Flying Horses Carousel at Oak Bluffs on the Vineyard. The islands' two main ferry services are the Steamship Authority and Hy-Line Cruises.
- Ice cream is an integral part of any summer vacation, and Cape Cod is blessed with many shops that make their own delectable treats. I conducted a survey last season and posted the results of my three-part series: "Cape cool: In search of Cape Cod's best ice cream."
- For more Cape Cod touring tips, check out the advice of my colleague, Kim Knox Beckius, at About.com's New England for Visitors site.
Whatever you end up doing, have a ball on your Cape family trip.
Photo: A lifeguard chair looks out to the blue ocean at Coast Guard Beach, on the Cape Cod National Seashore, in Eastham. T.S. Amarasiriwardena, Explore New England.com.
April 30, 2007
For all of its charm, Martha's Vineyard does not have particularly beautiful indigenous plants. But the island is a botanical haven nonetheless, thanks in large part to Polly Hill. The celebrated horticulturist demonstrated the viability of growing non-native plants on Martha's Vineyard by creating verdant gardens filled with a wide variety of exotic flowers, trees, shrubs, and other flora at her summer home on the island. In 1997, she established a nonprofit organization dedicated to continuing her pioneering research and education and opened up her property, now known as the Polly Hill Arboretum, to the public. Hill died last week at the age of 100, but the sprawling gardens that bear her name live on.
There are over 1700 kinds of plants on display at the Arboretum, including native varieties and ones cultivated from seeds imported from around the world. Visitors are welcome to stroll the grounds year round, and regularly scheduled tours are offered from Memorial Day through Columbus Day. The Arboretum offers educational programs, workshops, lectures, field trips, and other events.
The Polly Hill Arboretum
West Tisbury, Martha's Vineyard
Open daily sunrise to sunset, year round.
Visitors center and tours available Memorial Day to Columbus Day.
Suggested $5 donation for admission. Children 12 and under, free.
Photo: Polly Hill Arboretum
April 25, 2007
Over 150 vintners are expected to participate in the 11th annual Nantucket Wine Festival scheduled for May 16 to 20. The highlight of the event will be the Grand Tastings, during which all 150-plus wineries will be uncorking their bottles. At first glance, the $100 admission fee ($75 if purchased before May 1, multi-session packages also available) might sound a bit steep, but there will be hundreds of wines to sample (as well as food samplings from some of the island's premier eateries, cooking demonstrations from noted chefs, book-signings by food authors, and other presentations).
Then again, how much wine could a person drink? Sure, the tastings will only last 2 hours (although for another few dollars, guests could attend 2 back-to-back sessions), and each wine sample will be relatively small. But after imbibing the first 15-or-so glasses, I wonder whether guests will be shedding their madras garments and doing the Macarena on the otherwise hushed streets of the tony island--or passing out. Since Nantucket has held 10 previous wine festivals, I guess the organizers will have everything under control. In addition to the Grand Tastings, a film about California wineries will hold its premiere, and there will be winemaker symposia, wine and food seminars, a gala party, a celebrity chef and wine auction dinner, and, for those still able to hold their liquor after all that wine, prix fixe winery lunches and dinners. My advice to those planning to attend the festival: Leave your car on the mainland and use taxis. For a modest tip, island cabbies will indulge nude fares singing and dancing the Macarena.
Nantucket Wine Festival
May 16 to 20
Grand Tastings to be held at the Nantucket Yacht Club
April 11, 2007
Earth Day is fast approaching. What began as a crunchy granola mission to focus on the planet's health and humankind's role in shaping (or misshaping) the environment has taken on new meaning and significance in an era when even conservatives like Newt Gingrich acknowledge the inconvenient truth about global warming. Eco-activism, education, and fun will be on the agenda at a number of Earth Day events around the state, including exhibits, activities, a parade, and clean-up volunteer opportunities.
- Earth Day Celebration at Heritage Museum and Gardens
April 21 in Sandwich
Free with museum admission
508-888-3300
Crafts, trail explorations, and conservation-themed games.
- Party for the Planet
April 22 at Franklin Park Zoo in Boston, Stone Zoo in Stoneham, and Buttonwood Park Zoo in New Bedford
The Boston-area zoos will celebrate Earth Day with animal encounters, environmental exhibits, craft making, and other activities. The New Bedford Zoo will offer music, puppets, recycling info, crafts, and activities.
- The Greater New Bedford Earth Day Parade
April 12 in downtown New Bedford
The parade kicks off at 5:30 p.m. at the Whaling Museum.
- Earth Day Charles River Cleanup
April 21, 9 a.m. to noon at sites along the Charles
781-788-0007 X 303.
We may sing about loving that dirty water, but if Boston is your home, you'd probably rather have a clean Charles River, wouldn't you?
Photo: Charles River Watershed Association
March 26, 2007
Here's an interesting email from Lydia:
Hello Arthur,
I am a Massachusetts native currently living in Colorado. I'll be returning home to visit my elderly mom for about six weeks in the summer. I am trying to find out how I could possibly housesit for someone on the South Shore or Cape and Islands, preferably near the ocean. Any ideas on how to do this? I am a mature teacher and will be in Massachusetts between June 19 and July 25.
Thanks, Lydia
So, Lydia, let me get this straight: You're looking for a rent-free house on Cape Cod for six weeks during the prime summer season? Oh, and preferably near the ocean. It sounds like a crazy concept. But, it may not be so crazy after all.
There is a growing trend for homeowners to temporarily exchange houses and fulfill each other's vacation accommodations needs. Web sites such as Home Base Holidays and Home Xchange Vacation act as brokers to help match up traveling homeowners. If you have a house to swap, that could be one option. If you don’t have a home to offer in return, there are Web sites that list homeowners seeking housesitters and housesitters seeking houses to sit. One such site is SabbaticalHomes.com. It specializes in helping academics exchange homes, find housesitters, and make other arrangements while they plan to be away from their homes. Since the Boston area is home to many colleges, there are listings from professors who will be traveling during the summer break. As a teacher, I believe the service would be free for you to post a house-wanted listing. (The site requests that users make contributions to SabbaticalHomes.com when they successfully arrange an exchange or transaction.) No matter what site or resource you use, however, it's unlikely that many Cape Cod homeowners (especially ones near the ocean) would plan summer vacations away from their house. They already live in one of the world's most desirable summer vacation destinations. But, I'd imagine the middle of the winter would be a great time to score a Cape housesitting gig. On SabbaticalHomes.com, I did notice a few homeowners in and around Boston seeking housesitters during the summer. If you're flexible with your location, perhaps you could explore those listings. Good luck!
Photo: ©Arthur Levine, 2007.
March 12, 2007
While the Mayflower II, located in Plymouth, transports visitors to the famous 17th-century sailing ship, the reproduction itself is celebrating a milestone and establishing its own place in history. Built in 1957 as a gift to the U.S. by Great Britain, the Mayflower II will be celebrating its 50th anniversary when it opens for the season on March 25. Plimoth Plantation, which operates the Mayflower II, will be commemorating the anniversary with a series of special events and activities.
The ship faithfully recreates the original vessel and allows guests to climb aboard and explore it. Costumed Pilgrims stay in character to recount the fateful voyage, while exhibits depict the ship's history. In celebration of the anniversary of the Mayflower II, Plimoth Plantation will be showing The History Channel’s film: Desperate Crossing: The Untold Story of the Mayflower. The museum helped develop the film, which was shot on location in Plymouth. For a schedule of other Mayflower II anniversary events, including book signings and online journal entries from the ship's log, visit Plimoth Plantation's Web site.
Mayflower II
Open March 25 through November 26, 7 days a week.
On the Plymouth waterfront.
Adults $8, Children (6 to 12) $6, Seniors $7
(508) 746-1622
Photo: Plimoth Plantation
March 5, 2007
It may only be March 5, but if you're thinking of planning a summer vacation on Cape Cod, you're lagging behind other Type-A folks who already have their seagulls--er, ducks--in order. According to the travel Web site, WeNeedaVacation.com, over 30% of the Cape's vacationers have made their summer 2007 reservations. The site, which tracks travel and tourism trends, issued a report that gives some insight about the coming season.
For example, the site's research indicates that average rental prices for vacation homes will increase only slightly over 2006--good news for vacationers. Of course, with prices averaging $2300 for a Cape Cod vacation home rental, "good news" is in the pocketbook of the beholder. If you're considering a Nantucket vacation, the average price for a home rental is a whale-sized $4458. When do you typically take your Cape vacation? WeNeedaVacation.com says that the high season has typically been August. With schools and colleges starting earlier however, families have been shifting their vacations to July, and the site indicates that the trend is even more pronounced this season. If you haven't made any plans, and you're a chronic procrastinator, don't fret; more folks are waiting until the last minute to book their vacations and eventually make their way to the summer hot spot.
Photo: Cape Cod National Seashore
February 28, 2007
St. Patty's day is looming, and the state is fairly bursting with Irish-themed events and celebrations. That's no surprise since, according to the Boston Irish Tourism Association, Massachusetts is "America's Most Irish State," the "Capital of Irish America," and "Ireland's Home Away from Home." (Shh, don't tell anybody, but California, New York, and, improbably, Florida all have more Irish-Americans living in their states. Let's keep this Capital of Irish America thing on the QT, OK?) Of course, there will be a slew of St Patrick's Day parades, but there are plenty of other Irish events planned over the next few weeks as well.
A sampling of St Patrick's Day Parades:
- South Boston
Sunday, March 18
1 p.m. Starts at the Broadway MBTA stop.
- Lawrence
Sunday, March 11
1 p.m. Starts at City Hall.
- Yarmouth
Saturday, March 10
11:00 a.m. Starts at Bass River Sports World, 934 Route 28.
Other Irish activities:
- Irish Food & Culture Celebration
March 11 to 18
Events include an Irish Heritage Dinner at the Omni Parker House in Boston on Tuesday, March 13; "Rattle and Hum," an evening of oysters, Guinness, and U2 music at Boston's Eastern Standard Restaurant on Thursday, March 15; and a St. Patrick’s Day Evening Feast at the Seaport Hotel in South Boston on Saturday, March 17.
- Irish Tea Party
March 4 in Chicopee
2:00-4:00 p.m. in the Rotunda, Berchmans Hall, Elms College
- A Journey Home - John F. Kennedy and Ireland
A special exhibit that opened last St. Patrick's Day has been extended through September 21, 2007 at the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum in Boston.
Photo: Boston Irish Tourism Association
February 19, 2007
In honor of Presidents' Day, let's consider the impact that the Bay State has had--and will likely continue to have--on the Oval Office. Mitt Romney officially tossed his hat into the 2008 presidential ring. John Kerry and Michael Dukakis gave it their best shot. But the last Massachusetts politician to make it all the way to the White House was JFK. (The brief times that George W. and his father spent at Phillips Andover don't really qualify them as Bay State guys.) If you want to learn more about the popular president, you could visit the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library in Boston or the John F. Kennedy Birthplace in Brookline. To discover where JFK played touch football and spent many of his summers, however, head to the John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum.
The times that JFK spent at his family's Hyannisport compound are an important part of his presidency's almost-mythic Camelot saga. The museum, which is located on Main Street in Hyannis, offers multimedia exhibits about Kennedy's Cape Cod ties, such as his childhood years, his PT109 shipmates, and his love of the seashore. Special exhibits include "Summer of 1960," which recalls then Senator Kennedy, the Democratic Party nominee for president, planning his general election campaign in Hyannisport.
John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum
397 Main Street, Hyannis
Open throughout the year
(508) 790-3077
Photo: John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum
February 15, 2007
Kids love it. Parents dread it. It's February school vacation next week, and while students have a temporary reprieve from pencils and books, moms and dads may exhibit some dirty looks if their kids do nothing but plop themselves down in front of the TV. There are plenty of things to do on Cape Cod in lieu of mindless cartoons, MTV, or video games, but it'll take some planning on your part--which sort of sounds like homework, doesn't it? The kids get a break, but you're not off the hook. Here are some activities to consider:
Photo: Eventide Arts
February 5, 2007
Tis the season. Earlier, I wrote about The Boston Chocolate Tour and the Historic Deerfield Chocolate Festival. With Valentine's Day closing in, there are other odes to all things chocolate scheduled around the state, including the Osterville Chocolate Fest. The Cape Cod town will be luring casual and hardcore choc-aholics for a high-calorie, sugar-high stroll along its Main Street, which will be dubbed "Chocolate Avenue" for the event. There, visitors will find shops of all kinds joining in the chocolate fun--including Bedroom I's, which will feature a provocative chocolate undergarment display. By "display," I'd imagine that the store won't have any live models.
Other shops will offer complimentary hot cocoa, free boxes of chocolates with purchases, and other on-the-house treats. The local banks will even be dishing out freebie chocolate donut holes and chocolate coins. For more discerning palates, there will be Kahlua chocolate-dipped strawberries, double-chocolate muffins, a chocolate fountain for dipping, and gourmet chocolate samplings. If you plan to go, dress appropriately for outdoor strolling. Chocolate undergarments are optional.
Osterville Chocolate Fest
Saturday, February 10, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Main Street, Osterville
Photo: Osterville Chocolate Fest
January 15, 2007

Even though the weather has been mild, January's post-holidays winter doldrums can be disheartening. Communing with flowers can help buoy the sun-and-light-starved soul. Whether you have a green thumb or have trouble growing dandelions, you may want to head to Falmouth in late January for the annual Cape and Islands Orchids Society show. The theme for this year's event is the lyrical "Orchid Island"--as if the unique, colorful flowers could transport attendees to a faraway place.
The orchid show will offer a dozen vendors from New England and New York as well as speakers who will offer presentations with provocative titles such as "Confessions of an Orchid Addict" and "A Jungle Adventure." There will also be judges to rate and vote on the flowers. Everything kicks off on Friday, January 26 with a preview and dinner party. There's no word whether Susan Orlean, Boston-area author of "The Orchid Thief" (which inspired the movie, Adaptation), will attend the show--but you never know.
Orchid Island
Cape and Islands Orchids Society Show
Saturday and Sunday, January 27 and 28, 2007, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Seacrest Resort, Falmouth, MA
508-536-5016
Photo: CAIOS
January 8, 2007

A few weeks back, I wrote about the water park coming to the Sheraton Ferncroft in Danvers. When it opens this May, the CoCo Key Water Resort, as the newly named property will be known, will be New England's first major indoor water park. It's a phenomenon that's mostly based in the Midwest but has been spreading throughout the country and around the world. It's a great way for guests to enjoy water park fun (and for hotels to boost their occupancy rates) year round. There are a few smaller indoor water parks around New England, or more accurately perhaps, indoor pools with a few water park slides and attractions added. Two of them are located on Cape Cod.
The Cape Codder Resort in Hyannis has a small wave pool, two small water slides, and a whirlpool. Among other amenities, the hotel also offers a spa, a fitness center, and restaurants. The John Carver Inn, just off of the Cape in Plymouth, features the Pilgrim Cove Indoor Theme Pool with a small water slide, waterfalls and a whirlpool hot tub (all together: aaaaahhhhh!). It also offers a spa, fitness room, and an onsite Hearth & Kettle restaurant. Younger kids would probably enjoy the water park activities at these hotels--especially for a mid-winter getaway. Then again, the way this mild winter is going, perhaps we could just jump into the ocean to catch a wave.
The Cape Codder Resort
Route 132 & Bearse's Way, Hyannis
(888) 297-2200
John Carver Inn
25 Summer Street, Plymouth
(800) 274-1620
Photo: The Cape Codder Resort
January 4, 2007
Um, can somebody tell me what happened to winter? I've got the snowbrush ready. I lugged my boots up from the basement. And I've got my gloves, hats, and scarves at the ready. But, they're all just hanging around, waiting for some action. Not that I love cold weather and snowstorms, but the thermometer may hit 60 degrees today fer cryin' out loud--and that's just wrong for January. I know some of us got a little spooked when we saw Al Gore's grim greenhouse gases movie a few months ago, but I didn't think global warming was coming this quickly, did you?
Well, winter's bound to arrive sooner or later and with it, folks will want to find ways to stay warm. That's part of the rationale for the annual WMVY Big Chili Contest on Martha's Vineyard.
The contest, which will be held on Saturday, January 27, is one of the biggest events of its kind in the east. It regularly draws over 1000 hungry samplers and a slew of chili chefs. It costs $20, and all proceeds benefit a charity that supports needy Vineyard families. There will also be a mariachi band and other entertainment. The chili contest could make a great excuse around which to plan a winter getaway to Martha's Vineyard. And speaking of greenhouse gases, you might want to bring along a stash of Beano to help you digest the chili if you plan to attend the contest.
21st Annual WMVY Big Chili Contest
Saturday, January 27, 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Portuguese American Club, Vineyard Avenue, Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
508-693-9875
Photo: WMVY Radio
December 13, 2006
I've never quite understood why organizers call the New Year's Eve celebrations, "First Night." Isn't it the last night of the year? Granted, the focus is on the coming year, and technically, some of the events extend beyond midnight into the following day. But, that's the wee small hours of the morning, right Ole Blue Eyes?
Semantics aside, First Night, with its family-friendly, non-alcoholic, potpourri of cultural and artistic performances and events is a wonderful concept. While it began in Boston over 30 years ago, and continues to thrive there, over 200 communities around the world also stage First Night events. The number in Massachusetts has dwindled over the past few years, but there are still quite a few cities and towns staging First Night or similar New Year's Eve events. Here are some of the places you can ring in 2007 around the state:
Photo: First Night Worcester
December 6, 2006
With only 19 shopping days left until Christmas, you'd better start panicking. So get out there and spend, spend, spend! Since they extend through the end of the year, you have a little more time to enjoy holiday light displays. Earlier, I wrote about some spots around the state to view loads o' lights, including Bright Nights at Forest Park in Springfield, Edaville U.S.A. in Carver, and the Boston Common. Here's another place to ooh and aah oodles of twinkling lights: the Spectacle of Lights at Heritage Museum in Sandwich.
On Friday and Sunday evenings through December 31, guests will be able to ride through the displays in minibuses. On Saturday evenings, however, they'll have to hoof it through the museum's gardens and the light displays. (Don't ask my why; I just write about the events.) The Spectacle includes animated dioramas.
Indoors, the museum is featuring "A Victorian Secret." Sorry, there are no babes in scantily clad Christmas gear. It's an exhibit of Christmas Victoriana. The museum is also presenting a holiday café, live entertainment, and boutique shopping (so you can spend, spend, spend!).
Spectacle of Lights
Heritage Museums & Gardens
Sandwich, MA
508-888-3300
Photo: Heritage Museums & Gardens
November 27, 2006

Santa Claus is coming to town--a lot of towns around Massachusetts. In earlier blogs, I wrote about holiday events in Martha's Vineyard, Springfield, Carver, Boston, and Nantucket. Here are some more holiday hoedowns planned:
Falmouth Holidays-by-the-Sea Weekend
December 1 to 3
Christmas parade, caroling, light house tours, and, of course, a special appearance by the triple-ho dude.
17th annual Stockbridge Main Street at Christmas
December 1 to 3
The, ahem, picture-perfect town recreates the famous Norman Rockwell painting with holiday wreaths and lights, and antique cars.
Festival of Lights at La Salette Shrine in Attleboro
Through January 1
Over 250,000 lights illuminate the national shrine.
Photo: Stockbridge Chamber of Commerce
November 22, 2006
Santa Claus is coming to town--the town of Nantucket that is. The arrival of St. Nick and Mrs. Claus will be part of a month-long Nantucket Noel festival that kicks off this weekend. The highlight of the celebration will be the island's Annual Christmas Stroll Weekend, scheduled for December 1 to 3. There will be Victorian carolers, bell ringers, walking tours of the historic and architecturally rich town, special restaurant meals, a crafts show, the Nantucket Winter Run, and a host of other activities.
Among other highlights of Nantucket Noel will be:
- November 24: Lighting of the Trees ceremony and community caroling
- November 24 and 25 and December 1 and 2: Free performances of A Child’s Christmas in Wales
- December 2 -18: Nantucket Historical Association annual Festival of Trees
- December 3: Holiday ice skating recital and skate party with Santa
For more information about these and other holiday events, go to the Nantucket Noel site.
Photo: Nantucket Chamber of Commerce
November 20, 2006
Once the Thanksgiving leftovers have been stored in the refrigerator, it's time to get into the spirit of the next holiday. Grab the ladders, the hammers, and the extension cords: It's holiday lights season! Is it just me, or are lots of folks really going bonkers with their Christmas light displays? There's nothing wrong with some candles in the windows, a wreath on the door, and perhaps a few strings of white bulbs. But more and more homeowners seem to be vying for the tackiest holiday display award with enough lights to make both global warming prognosticator Al Gore and Las Vegas casino owner Steve Wynn cringe. Then they add sleighloads of animated reindeer, inflatable Santas, gargantuan candy canes, and other wacky doodads. Oy vey.
If it's over-the-top Christmas lights you're after, forget the homegrown variety and check out some of the state's best holiday displays. Perhaps the biggest and brightest is Springfield's Bright Nights at Forest Park...
Starting this Wednesday, November 22, the 11th annual drive-through light display will enchant visitors with a series of tableaus, including Seuss Land (the children's author is a Springfield native), Jurassic World, Victorian Village, and Letters to Santa. For more info, go to Bright Nights at Forest Park.
Near Cape Cod, Edaville U.S.A. will be presenting its long-running Christmas Festival of Lights. The park's steam train will take guests on a grand two-mile tour past more than seven million holiday lights. There's also an antique carousel and visits with a certain red-suited, jolly gentleman.
The big city of Boston has its bright lights as well. On Wednesday, November 29, Mayor Menino will flip the switch to light the Copley Square holiday tree. The following day, on Thursday, November 30, lights will adorn the city's official Christmas tree, a 42-foot white spruce from Nova Scotia, and eighty other trees throughout Boston Common. There will also be entertainment and fireworks.
Admit it, Sparky. No matter how many extension cords you rig together, you can't compete with 80 sparkling trees or 7 million lights. So put away the ladder, and take the family to one of these displays.
Photo: Bright Nights at Forest Park
November 15, 2006

Martha's Vineyard might not be the first place that'd pop into your head for a December mini-vacation, but you may want to give it a second thought. From December 8 through 10, the island will be putting on its holiday finery for the annual Christmas in Edgartown celebration. The charming town has put together an ambitious schedule of events to kick off the season including concerts, a holiday parade, a tour of Edgartown's inns, a holiday crafts show, a chowder contest (yum), and a host of other activities.
Among the Christmas in Edgartown highlights will be a Bah Humbug Ghosts, Gossip & Downright Scandal walking tour around the town, a holiday family concert at the Old Whaling Church, a Christmas Ball at the Harbor View Hotel, Christmas breakfast with Santa at The Wharf Restaurant, a treasure hunt for kids, and a carol of bells featuring the combined peals of Edgartown's churches. It sounds like a delightful festival. If you go, you may want to take in a performance of The Snow Queen at the The Vineyard Playhouse in Vineyard Haven. The family holiday show will be playing from December 8 through 23.
Christmas in Edgartown
December 8 through 10
Photo: allcapecod.com
November 8, 2006

Plymouth may get all the glory and Thanksgiving buzz, but the Mayflower Pilgrims actually landed in Provincetown on November 21, 1620. A few weeks later, they decided to seek more stable land and ended up in Plymouth. But the ex-pats drafted and signed the Mayflower Compact, a historic document that established their government, in Provincetown Harbor and nearly decided to make Cape Cod their home. That's why the Pilgrim Monument is in Provincetown. And that's why every November, the monument stages a commemorative lighting ceremony.
This year's Pilgrim Landing Lights ceremony will be held on Wednesday, November 22 (the evening before Thanksgiving) at 6 p.m. 3500 white bulbs will illuminate the outside of the monument and remain lit through January 6, 2007. Admission to the monument and the adjacent Provincetown Museum will be free on November 22. There will also be live music and complimentary refreshments. In addition to the lighting event, the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum will be open Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays throughout November. It will close December through April and reopen April 15, 2007 for daily operation though next October.
Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum
High Pole Hill Road
Provincetown
508-487-1310
Photo: ©Arthur Levine, 2006
October 26, 2006
The summer crowds are gone. The island's signature daffodils have lost their flowers and lie dormant until next spring. Many of the shops hawking T-shirts, burgers, and other tourist essentials have closed for the season. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't consider heading over to the Grey Lady for an off-season visit. Sure, it would probably be far too chilly to take a dip at Surfside Beach. But there are tradeoffs you'd get for zagging now instead of zigging with the throngs in the summer. For example, you'd feel as if Nantucket was really your personal property. The rhythm of the island in the fall slows to a pleasing mid-tempo. The mournful wail of the foghorns takes on a special cadence during autumn's gentle, but insistent chill. And many of the inns and restaurants that tough it out year-round roll out the red carpet with fall deals and specials.
What kind of deals? How about an in-room massage for $55, a discounted dinner gift certificate, and 40% off room rates at the Cliff Lodge or Martin House Inns? Arno's restaurant is offering three-course Fall Wine Dinners at tempting prices. For more information about these and other seasonal deals, go to the Nantucket Chamber's Fall Specials page. Need more of an incentive to visit Nantucket? Consider attending one of the cooking demonstrations and tastings by renowned chefs at the White Elephant's Fall Chef Series.
Photo: Nantucket Today
October 16, 2006

Once the target of Cape Cod hunters (and the inspiration for the evocative expression, a "Nantucket Sleigh Ride"), whales are now protected. With many of the magnificent creatures feeding and living in Stellwagen Bank, the rich, fertile area that runs along the Massachusetts coastline, area whale watches have become quite popular. Just a few miles from prime viewing areas, Provincetown is an ideal jumping-off point to launch a whale watch. I spent an afternoon aboard the Captain Red, one of two vessels operated by Portuguese Princess Excursions, and saw the whales in all their glory.
Run in conjunction with the Provincetown Center for Coastal Studies, the Captain Red had a couple of onboard educators to provide background info and running commentary as it encountered whales. It didn't take long to see the massive animals. I was surprised how close we were able to get to the whales and was amazed by their sheer size and beauty. Obviously comfortable with the presence of the vessel, one whale swam underneath it and gave everyone onboard a rare glimpse at its enormous bulk. We saw whales feeding, flukes beating the water, whales diving, and, the most inspiring sight of the day, one whale breaching "Free Willy" style as it rose completely out of the water and landed with a crashing cascade of water. The four-hour excursion was simultaneously a relaxing day at sea and a rousing exploration of whales.
Instead of harpoons, whale watchers shoot the animals with cameras. I had mine at the ready and posted some pretty nifty shots (including one of the breaching whale) in Explore New England's Your Photos gallery. Check 'em out.
Portuguese Princess Excursions whale watches, which leave out of Provincetown's MacMillian and Fisherman's Wharves, continue, weather permitting, through the end of October. They will resume a regular schedule next May. For more info, call 1 800-442-3188.
The writer was provided with complimentary passes for the purpose of reviewing the whale watch. While it has not influenced this review, ExploreNewEngland.com believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest.
Photo: ©Arthur Levine, 2006.
September 18, 2006
The weather may be getting cooler, and our thoughts may be turning to hot cider and pumpkin pie, but folks in Massachusetts have a year-round passion for ice cream. Case in point: There's been plenty of reader response to my Cape Cool ice cream rating series. A few weeks back, my posse of intrepid taste testers scoured Cape Cod in search of the area's best ice cream. We had our say. Some of you got your licks in via email. Here's a sampling of responses, starting with Cape Cod Foodie. (And with an email handle like that, we'd better pay attention.)
I think that Polar Cave is the best ice cream on the Cape. I agree that the vanilla and chocolate are exceptional. I like the Almond Joy, but find that the frozen pudding is the best anywhere. Go back and taste for yourself.
Well, Mr. or Ms. Foodie, thanks for writing and sharing your thoughts. To be honest...
...the coconut flavor in the Polar Cave's Almond Joy may not have been everyone's cup of, er, ice cream. I gave each shop the option to choose its own "signature" flavor for our taste test (we also sampled vanilla and chocolate at each place to maintain some consistency), and the owner of Polar Cave singled out the Almond Joy. Then again, a lot of people wouldn't be too fond of the raisins and distinct flavors in frozen pudding, regardless of its pedigree. I was baffled that some members of my Cape Cool taste team found the Highland Creamery's chocolate heart attack "too chocolatey." But you know what they say: There's no accounting for taste--except the taste testers had survey sheets and accounted for their taste with a five-point rating system.
George writes:
Has your team of highly trained taste testers ever tried the Schoolhouse Ice Cream located on Route 28 in Harwich? Their Harwich Mud Pie is simply delicious.
Thanks for writing George. No, we didn't hit that place on our cross-Cape tour. The name sounds suspiciously like the Sundae School, which we did visit. I'll probably reconvene the Cape Cool team for another go-around to different shops next season. Maybe we'll see if Schoolhouse makes the grade.
Deb says size DOES matter, with ice cream portions anyways:
I am sorry to hear that the Cape Cod Creamery was voted number one in your search for Cape Cod's best ice cream. We visited the Cape Cod Creamery when it first opened. I ordered a small ice cream, and when I saw the size, I asked the server where the rest of it was. She said that their ice cream was so rich, you needed very little, and that I would be satisfied when I tasted it. Well after two spoonfuls, the ice cream was gone, and I can't say that I was satisfied at all! We have never returned to the Cape Cod Creamery and never will. When you pay for a small scoop of ice cream you deserve a scoop of ice cream. I did enjoy the rest of your article and agree with all your other comments. Cape Cod Creamery just hits a sore spot with me and my family.
Thanks for writing Deb. Yes, as I pointed out in the Cape Cool survey, the servings were quite small (and ironically, among the most expensive). It must be tough for ice cream shop owners to find the right balance of quality, price, and value to be successful, given the short season and fierce competition. Cape Cod Creamery has developed a high-quality/high-price formula. It's up to consumers to determine the value. Obviously you made your determination.
Photo: Virtualcities.com
September 6, 2006
We observed, sniffed, licked, gently chewed, slurped, pondered over, gently chewed some more, and otherwise snarfed down eighteen scoops of ice cream at six of Cape Cod's most highly regarded shops in an attempt to determine which joint had the best cool, creamy stuff. Our conclusion: BURP! No actually, the crack ice cream survey team I assembled was able to pare down the list and come up with some winners.
If you arrived here first and want to learn more about our highly sophisticated, if wholly disreputable, survey process as well as discover more about our adventures at Cape Cod Creamery, Polar Cave, and Four Seas Ice Cream, click over to Part one of my Cape Cool blog series. To learn more about our ice cream samplings at Highland Creamery, the Sundae School, and the Ice Cream Cafe, zip over to Part two of the series. If you're waiting with your tongues hanging out and your stomach growling to find out who the winners are, read on. Ed McMahon, please call for the timpani.
We sampled vanilla, chocolate, and one flavor that each shop identified as its signature. We used a five-point rating system and judged the ice cream on attributes such as texture and flavor intensity. I crunched all the numbers. Of the six shops we visited, the winner, with an overall score of 4.61, was Cape Cod Creamery (Route 28 in S. Yarmouth, 508-398-8400). Rating a 4.69, its chocolate also topped our survey. And its signature flavor, Craigville Caramel Crunch, scored a near-perfect 4.82 and blew away the competition in that category. A relative newcomer to Cape Cod's dessert scene, the Cape Cod Creamery offered smooth, obviously fresh, and creamy ice cream with distinct and tasty, but not overwhelming, flavors.
Coming in second place was Polar Cave (22 Falmouth Rd., aka Rt. 28, in Mashpee, 508-477-5553) with an overall score of 4.21. Its vanilla rated a 4.43 to top our list, although its Almond Joy didn't quite fill our survey team with joy. Just behind Polar Cave with an overall score of 4.17 was the Sundae School (381 Lower County Rd. in Dennisport, 508-394-9122-- also locations in Harwichport and East Orleans). Its ice cream scored well for all three flavors, but the shop is best known for its unique sundaes and its cute schoolhouse charm.
Perhaps the biggest surprise of our ice cream gorge-a-thon was the disappointing results at the legendary Four Seas Ice Cream (360 S. Main St. in Centerville, 508-775-1394). Perennially praised for having some of Cape Cod's best ice cream, we rated the 72-year-old shop last with an overall rating of 3.76. With strong hints of cinnamon, its chocolate was just plain weird. And the texture of the ice cream was a bit gummier than the other shops.
My personal favorite shop was Highland Creamery (Route 6 in Truro, 508-487-3435). Its Chocolate Heart Attack (deep chocolate ice cream with fudge chunks, Godiva-soaked brownie pieces, and shaved white chocolate--can somebody scream, "Amen!") is to die for. And with its bubble machine, disco ball, and other wacky frou-frou, its decor was beyond funky.
Do you have your own favorite Cape Cod ice cream shops? Do you think my Cape Cool survey team was wildly off base? Write to me using the "Ask Arthur Here" box in the right column.
Photo: Business Brokers.com Web site
September 4, 2006
My expert team of highly trained taste testers--OK, actually it's about a dozen members of my extended family--are crisscrossing the Cape to try and scope out the area's best ice cream. If you arrived here first, you may want to click over to the first part of my three-part blog series in which I explained our highly sophisticated rating protocols--OK, actually our methodology and results are highly suspect, but we're having a ball--and weighed in on the first three shops, the Cape Cod Creamery, Polar Cave, and Four Seas Ice Cream. In this blog, we move on to our next three premium homemade ice cream stands. Which Cape Cod shops take a lickin' and are worth your pickin'? Read on.
5-pont rating system: 1=UGH! 5=COOL!
Highland Creamery
Route 6, Truro
508-487-3435
A relative newcomer to the Cape Cod ice cream scene, Highland Creamery is as noteworthy for its wild decor as its wild flavors. Perhaps taking its cue from uber-funky Provincetown, the shop includes a disco ball, a bubble machine, hot pink and blue frilly umbrellas on its outdoor tables, and retro 70s tunes playing on the sound system. Amid all the whimsy, however, there is some serious ice cream. The flavors, particularly the chocolate, are intense. Not that I or most of the survey team could even comprehend the notion, but a couple of our tasters found the flavors "too chocolate-y." That's like having too much fun. Among the wacky and highly creative (and highly delicious) flavors are White Trash (which includes white peaches and liquor-soaked white chocolate) and the signature flavor we sampled, Chocolate Heart Attack: deep chocolate ice cream with fudge chunks, Godiva-soaked brownie pieces, and shaved white chocolate. Oh. My. Goodness. For me, Highland Creamery was ice cream ecstasy. A small cone, which was quite small, costs $3.05, the most expensive among the six shops we visited.
- Vanilla: 3.56
- Chocolate: 4.47
- Signature flavor-- Chocolate Heart Attack: 4.26
Sundae School Ice Cream
381 Lower County Rd., Dennisport (also locations in Harwichport and East Orleans)
508-394-9122
With its vintage knickknacks, marble tables, and player piano, the Sundae School makes a great presentation. A trip here for a sweet treat is an event, and the shop is quite popular. (During peak times, employees direct traffic in the parking lot.) But it is also the largest of the Cape Cod ice cream shops we visited, and the Sundae School's eager team of scoopers, which gets my pick for the best service, keeps the line moving. While its flavors scored well in our ratings, the Sundae School is really best known for its--you guessed it--sundaes. Unique sundae toppings include fresh blueberry, maple walnut, fresh strawberry, and burgundy cherry. The hot fudge sundae, with its dripping marshmallow and gooey hot fudge, brings back memories of Bailey's, the long-lamented Boston-area ice cream chain. For the signature flavor, we sampled Shark's Tooth: black raspberry with white chocolate chips. A small cone, which was fairly small, costs $2.85.
- Vanilla: 3.97
- Chocolate: 4.27
- Signature flavor-- Shark's Tooth: 4.28
Ice Cream Cafe
5 S. Orleans Rd. (Rt. 28), Orleans
508-240-0003
A tiny shop tucked behind a law office, the Ice Cream Cafe has a surprisingly large menu of flavors. In addition to ice cream and fountain drinks, the shop also serves fresh fruit slush (yum!) and flavored coffees. If the shop gets too claustrophobic, there is a deck behind the shop. A small cone, which was fairly small, costs $2.65.
- Vanilla: 3.97
- Chocolate: 4.15
- Signature flavor-- Pumpkin Pie: 4.30
In the final part of the Cape Cool ice cream survey series, I'll summarize and evaluate the ratings numbers.
Photo: A few members of Explore New England's Cape Cod Ice Cream Survey Team.
©Arthur Levine, 2006. Licensed to boston.com.
September 1, 2006
Nearly everybody loves ice cream, but with per-capita consumption levels off the charts, New Englanders, and Bay Staters in particular, have an incredible jones for the cool, creamy stuff. Since summer vacations and ice cream go hand in sticky hand, it's no wonder that Cape Cod has an explosion of ice cream shops--and just may be the ice cream capital of the world. So, where is the Cape's very best ice cream? Beats me. But I assembled a crack team (my extended family) to go on a rigorous tour of duty and sample some of the region's most celebrated creameries. Herewith, the first of a three-part blog series in which we attempt to identify who has Cape Cod's best ice cream.
First, some ground rules and caveats: There may be over 100 shops on the Cape peddling ice cream. Of those, there are probably at least a couple dozen that make their own. Nothing against Friendly's or places that bring in Hershey's brand or ice cream from other sources, but I wanted to focus on the homegrown variety. The six shops I chose to visit were more or less random; there may very well be other places on the Cape that serve "better" ice cream. Perhaps I'll make this an annual series and visit different shops in future years.
At each stand, we sampled vanilla, chocolate, and one flavor that the shop identified as its signature. We used a highly sophisticated five-point rating system and judged the ice cream on attributes such as texture and flavor intensity. The process was as scientifically sound as a glob of melted chocolate chip ice cream, and the results have a margin of error of plus or minus 100%. Keep in mind that all of the shops serve super-premium ice cream (and charge super-premium prices), and that even the lowest-scoring flavors (which weren't all that low) were still wonderful and infinitely better than most of the air-filled gunk passing for ice cream in supermarket freezers. OK, enough with the blather; let's get down to business.
5-pont rating system: 1=UGH! 5=COOL!
Cape Cod Creamery
Route 28, S. Yarmouth
508-398-8400
One of th